Doris and Jilly Cook » grains

Chestnut Vs. Wheat Pasta

dorisandjilly — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 21:20:27 +0000

(I don’t know about you, but I needed a little break from fruit. Fortunately, a local foodie who wishes to remain known only as “the co-conspirator” hatched up a plan for a pasta experiment involving some chestnut flour she picked up on a recent trip to Italy. Even better, she volunteered to blog about it. Welcome, co-conspirator!)

Recently the co-conspirator and Doris set out to answer two questions: What is the best ratio of chestnut flour to wheat flour when making homemade pasta? And, which filling or sauce works best with chestnut flour pasta?

To answer these questions we prepared two kinds of dough—50/50 chestnut flour/white flour (which we’ll call heavy chestnut) and 25/75 chestnut flour/white flour (light chestnut)—and two kinds of pasta: ravioli and fettuccine. In both cases we used a standard homemade pasta ratio of 1 egg per cup of flour, with just a few drops of water, if necessary. We filled both the heavy and the light chestnut ravioli with a mixture of pumpkin and ricotta and served them with a light coating of butter with fresh cut sage and chives. For the heavy and light chestnut fettuccini, we tried a sauce of fresh chopped tomatoes in pesto. Two highly qualified tasters, whom we’ll call spouse 1 and spouse 2, were recruited to assist with the evaluation. Between tastings palettes were cleansed with chilled Prosecco. Before reporting the results we’ll discuss the difference between the doughs.

The 50/50 was extremely fragrant, redolent of chestnuts and reminding Doris of prosciutto (from pigs fed on chestnuts) and the co-conspirator of bellota ham (from pigs fed on acorns). It was darker than the 25/75 pasta. In the machine it did not stretch as easily as the 25/75 pasta, perhaps because the chestnut flour is lacking in gluten. The 25/75 pasta had some aroma, stretched better because of the gluten, but required the addition of more water than the 50/50 pasta.

(An aside from Doris: Can I just say that this was a lot of pasta?)

All four tasters agreed that the 50/50 pasta filled with the pumpkin and ricotta ravioli was superior to the 25/75 pasta. The pumpkin and chestnuts were a wonderful combination because they both have a “meaty” taste now described as umami. And, as this would suggest, the sweet tomato pesto sauce clashed with the 50/50 linguine and the four tasters all declared the 25/75 combination the superior choice but felt that traditional pasta would be a better bet for a sweet sauce. Those who wish to make chestnut flour pasta would be well advised to look for umami sauces and fillings. Mushroom stroganoff would be a good bet.

(P.S., from Doris. You don’t have to go to Italy to get chestnut flour. In Philadelphia, you can get it at the Italian market, but you can probably either find it or order it at most specialty “gourmet” stores.)

Spelt Salads

dorisgoat — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 15:55:49 +0000

Somewhere out there is a reader who’s upset that I never actually posted the uses for spelt that I promised you. Ian, these are for you. (Both recipes, if you can call them that, are mine.)

Spelt, Barley, and Walnut Salad

1 c. cooked spelt
1 c. cooked bulgur
1/4 to 1/2 c. walnuts, chopped
about 1/2 a small red onion, chopped
a nice handful of tarragon, chopped
juice of a lemon or two
about 1/4 c. olive oil
salt and pepper

1) Combine the spelt, bulgur, waluts, onion, and tarragon.

2) Make a vinaigrette by mixing the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper.

3) Toss everything together and let it sit at least an hour before serving.

Spelt, Brown Rice, and Bok Choy Salad with Sesame Oil

1 c. cooked spelt
2 c. cooked brown rice
a big pile of bok choy, cut into little ribbons
a small hot pepper, cut into little strips
a couple of scallions, cut into 2 inch pieces, then sliced in half
1/4 c. soy sauce
1/4 c. rice wine vinegar
2 T sesame oil

1) Mix the spelt, brown rice, bok choy, hot peppers, and scallions.

2) Make a vinaigrette from the soy sauce, vinegar, and sesame oil.

3) Toss everything together and let it sit at least an hour before serving.

The Big Picture

Considering their ingredients, both of these were surprisingly tasty. The second one needed a little extra something: add more salt, or soy sauce, or lime juice, or hot sauce, or even nam plah (fish sauce), depending on what you like. If you want to create your own spelt salad, the basic pattern is:

1 c. cooked spelt
at least 1 c. of another grain (otherwise the spelt is just overwhelming)
something to give it character: nuts, vegetables, possibly even fruit
a vinaigrette that goes with the nuts/vegetables/fruit

Please leave a comment if you come up with a good one!

Spelt in the Pressure Cooker

dorisgoat — Fri, 29 May 2009 15:55:12 +0000

I know, I know. Spelt? Really? Yes. Cooked right, spelt is delicious and nutritious, high in fiber and protein. It’s basically a wheat berry (and most definitely contains gluten), but because it’s not exactly wheat, some people with wheat allergies can tolerate it. Like a regular wheat berry, the flavor is quite nutty, and it makes for an interesting textural addition to salads, breads, and pilafs. The catch is that it takes forever to cook. I’ve never actually tried it on the stovetop, but most cookbooks will tell you to 2–3 hours (less if you soak it overnight). I read directions like that and think: That’s what pressure cookers are for. Sure enough, 25 minutes in the pressure cooker and you’ve got some pretty good spelt. I like to make a big batch of it and then add it to grain salads over the next week. Think of this a preview of upcoming posts.

Pressure-Cooked Spelt

1) Put 1 c. spelt and 2 c. water in a small metal or glass bowl that will fit inside your pressure cooker. Cover it with foil. Set it on top of your pressure cooker’s steamer rack and add 2 cups of water to the pot.

2) Close and lock the lid and crank up the heat. Cook at 15 lbs. pressure for 25 minutes and let the pressure drop of its own accord. For a refresher on pressure cooker basics, click here.

Grains and Greens

dorisgoat — Fri, 15 May 2009 16:05:25 +0000

More gems from the garden: turnip greens!

Inspired by Mark Bittman’s dictum to eat whole grains, everyday, I mixed this with bulgar for a hearty, healthy, meal. You’ll note that I didn’t say “attractive.” While tasty and nutritious, the look of the final product can only be described as Moosewood circa 1982:

Nevertheless, since it’s an interesting cooking technique and good for you, too, I thought I’d pass it along. The original version of this came from Paula Wolfert’s Mediterranean Grains and Greens, but I’ve long since lost the recipe. My version was a tad on the bland side—I think hers involved some harissa or dill or something, which would have been nice.

Grains and Greens

1 big bunch turnip greens, sliced very thinly
1 onion, diced
1 T olive oil
1 c. bulgar
salt
about 2 T of water

1) Saute the onion in the oil in a large, deep skillet.

2) Add the salt, the greens, and the bulgar to the pan and turn the heat down to low. Mix everything together very carefully. Your skillet will now look like this:

3) Put the lid on and cook for about 20 minutes. You’ll notice that I didn’t tell you to add any water. That’s not a mistake. Assuming your greens are fresh and that you’ve cleaned them properly, they contain enough moisture to steam the grains without added water. After about 20 minutes or so, check it to make sure that it’s not burning or sticking. You might want to add a couple of tablespoons of water or so, but if it’s still moist in there you might not need it. Let it cook another 10 minutes, turn off the heat, and let it continue to steam for another 10 minutes with the heat off.

Between the turnip greens and the bulgar, you are entitled to feel very self-righteous when you eat this.

Pea and Leek Risotto

dorisgoat — Fri, 01 May 2009 16:55:45 +0000

Spring is finally here! Is there any dish that’s more springlike than a simple combination of leeks and peas? It’ll get even better in about three weeks when the peas come from the garden instead of the freezer, but even this version feels like a celebration of renewal.

If you’ve never tried making your own risotto, here’s the deal. It’s important that you use a short-grain rice to produce the necessary starch. Arborio is traditional, but you can use any short-grain rice, including brown rice. They key is to stir frequently to release the starches and to add hot liquid in stages. Cookbooks will tell you that you need to stir “constantly,” but that’s not actually true. Just push it around a bit to make sure it’s not sticking and you’ll be fine. They tell me you can make a fanastic risotto in the pressure cooker, but since for me the whole appeal of risotto is an opportunity to read a book while I make dinner, I prefer the slow, methodical stovetop version. Once you get the hang of it, you can start substituting liquids, vegetables, and fats to fit your whims.

Pea and Leek Risotto

2 T butter (for vegan version, use more olive oil)
2 T olive oil
2 leeks, white parts only, cleaned and cut into thin strips
1 1/2 c. short-grain rice
approx. 5 cups stock
appox. 1 c. dry white wine, preferably unoaked
about 1 c. of fresh or frozen peas
1/3 c. or so aged cheese, like parmesan, pecorino romano, or gruyere, shredded

1) Heat up your stock in a small pan. Keep it simmering on the stove.

2) Melt your fats together in a thick-bottomed medium saucepan. Add the leeks and cook until they’re limp. Add the rice and stir until all the grains are coated. Cook for about a minute.

3) Start adding liquid in small batches. Start with 1/2 cup. Stir it in, and keep stirring until the grains have absorbed most of the liquid. When it starts to look dry, add more. Keep repeating this process until the rice is al dente. At some point, use the wine instead of the stock. The entire process will take about 45 minutes. In the end you’ll have something that looks sort of like oatmeal, only with rice.

4) When you’re more or less satisfied that the rice is almost done, add the peas. When the peas are cooked through, turn off and add the cheese. Stir until everything is well mixed. This is best served immediately.

Variations: A vegan version will be less rich, but still pretty good. Use olive oil for all the fat, use a vegetable stock for flavor, and add some additional vegetables. It may also need a little extra salt, since you won’t be adding any in the cheese.

Penne with Fresh Ricotta

dorisgoat — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 16:22:42 +0000

Fresh ricotta is a wonderful, underappreciated ingredient. If you can find rennet, it’s easy enough to make yourself, but in Philadelphia we are blessed with Claudio’s, a glorious cheesemaker that sells fresh ricotta for the bargain basement price of $2.99 a pound. (Oddly enough, they don’t mention the fresh cheese on their Web site, but trust me, it’s there). It’s so delicious that one of the best things you can do with it is simply to eat it, plain, on bruschetta or pizza. If you want to get a little more ambitious, it makes a fantastic creamy pasta sauce.

Penne with Fresh Ricotta and Sun-Dried Tomatoes

1 pound dry penne, or fresh pasta of your choice
1 pound fresh ricotta, or less, to taste
1/4 c. sun-dried tomatoes, preferably cherry tomatoes you’ve dried yourself
1/2 c. parsley, chopped
salt and pepper

1) Bring a big pot of water to boil for the pasta. Meanwhile, soak the tomatoes in about a cup of boiling water. When they’re flexible , drain them, reserving the water to thin the sauce later. Cut into thin strips.

2) Combine the cheese, tomatoes, and parsley.

3) Cook the pasta until it’s as tender as you’d like it (al dente is nice, as the sauce is so creamy and mild), then drain. Return the pasta to the cooking pot along with the cheese combination and the sun-dried tomato water. Toss everything, and add some olive oil if it’s too dry. Add salt and pepper to taste.

As you might guess from the ingredients, this is a pretty rich dish, so a little goes a long way. You’ll want to eat more,though. If I ever manage to track down an affordable pastry mat to cover my countertop tiles, I’ll get back in the habit of making my own pasta…

Stuffed Cabbage (or, Cabbage and Pork, Part II)

dorisandjilly — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 15:50:44 +0000

Y’all know I love my cabbage and pork. Once again, the picture doesn’t really do this meal justice. Imagine succulent cabbage melted onto the form of a giant pork meatball, equally sweet and sour. This recipe had the additional advantage of using up a variety of items filling my refrigerator, freezer, and winter pantry: homemade canned tomato sauce, frozen ground pork, eggs, cabbage, onion, garlic, thyme, rice, and lemons of dubious age. The lemons came from the local vegetable truck; the rice from Whole Foods; everything else either came from the CSA or I grew it myself. (OK, I bought the sugar and vinegar and salt.)

Now that I feel all virtuous in the sourcing, there is a guilty confession. This recipe was adapted from Sharon Lebewohl and Rena Bulkin’s The 2nd Ave Deli Cookbook. This is a decidely Jewish cookbook—and my use of pork makes it decidedly treif. What can I say? I like my pork. Let’s think of it as an “eastern European” recipe and move on. My apologies to my in-laws. Aside from the pork, the only other change is the use of the pressure cooker rather than the nearly two hours their version needs to cook on the stove.

Stuffed Cabbage in the Pressure Cooker

For the stuffing:
1 lb ground meat (preferably beef or lamb, or, if you’re obsessive, pork)
3/4 c. uncooked rice
1 c. chopped onion
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 c. water
2 cloves garlic, pressed
2 t. salt
1/2 t. pepper
some thyme

For the cabbage:
1 large cabbage, cored

For the sauce:

2 c. tomato sauce
1 1/2 c. chopped onions
1/2 lemon, chopped into large pieces
1 c. white or brown sugar
1/2 c. white or cider vinegar
1 c. water

What to do:

1) Core the cabbage by making a series of cuts with a long, sharp knife:

2) Bring a very large pot of water to boil. Plop the cabbage in. Boil it for a few minutes, remove, and carefully peel off as many outer layers as you can and set the leaves aside. Repeat until you have at least 12 whole cabbage leaves. Then set the rest of the cabbage aside.

3) Meanwhile, while you’re bringing the water to a boil, combine all of your stuffing ingredients in a large bowl. Combine the sauce ingredients in a separate bowl.

4) Cut out the hard part of the central spine from a leaf of cabbage and place 1/4 of stuffing in the middle. Roll it up:

5) Place your cabbage rolls in your pressure cooker:

6) Chop up the remaining cabbage, add it to the sauce mixture, and pour over the cabbages.

7) Close and lock the lid. Cook at 15 lbs of pressure for 10 minutes. (For a refresher on pressure cooker basics, see this post.) Let the pressure drop of its own accord.

You’ll be eating it for days. It’s shockingly filling but utterly delicious.

Pressure Cooker Barley

dorisgoat — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 15:35:01 +0000

Everybody’s been talking about Mark Bittman’s new plan to be vegan until dinnertime. Suddenly, he’s all about stocking your refrigerator with whole grains like barley, quinoa, and spelt, and snacking on them all week. Poor guy—no one seems to have told him that couscous isn’t really a whole grain. The thing is, he’s making it harder than it has to be because he either has not discovered, or has not deigned to share, the fact that most whole grains are better made in the pressure cooker. Really.

The key to cooking most grains in the pressure cooker is to cook them in a pan within a pan, like so:

Combine 1 cup of barley with 2 1/2 c. of water or stock in a small pan, cover it securely with foil, then place the whole apparatus on the cooking rack in your pressure cooker. Add 2 c. of water (just to create steam). Cook at 15 pounds of pressure for 12 minutes, then let the pressure drop of its own accord.

Soon, you’ll have this:

It was a hair watery at first, but after I let it sit for about 10 minutes all was well.

Your pressure cooker should come with a grains cooking chart, or you can check out Miss Vickie’s (though note 18 minutes strikes me as too long for barley).

Happy health eating!